Chablis 1er Cru Montmains AOC 2023

A Chablis of two sides: almost austere on the nose, yet sensual and dense in texture, running through with pure, tonic energy. The colour is pale golden yellow with slightly green reflections.

Together with Fôrets and Butteaux, Montmains forms a Premier Cru hillside along the road from Chablis to Courgis, on the right-hand side of the road and on the left bank of the Serein. The name derives from "Montméen", a medium-sized hill that remains lower than the surrounding peaks. Because the site is not directly exposed to the sun, it was often prone to frost in the past; today, this makes it all the more expressive of freshness. The soils are shaped by Kimmeridgian limestone and clay. Damien Bouchard considers Montmains the best vineyard in terms of vine health: twelve long rows running from top to bottom, just before Forêts, planted in 1971.

Chardonnay, hand-harvested on 22 September 2023, pressed directly and fermented. Ageing lasted 13 months, 60% in used demi-muids and 40% in stainless steel. Bottled on 20 November 2024, lightly filtered and sulphured; total sulphur is 55 mg/l.

The nose opens reductively with a note of struck match, then brightens and becomes more citrus-driven: lemon and lime, green pineapple, linden and orange blossom, plus wet stone. On the palate the oak comes through more clearly than on the nose, without setting the tone. The wine is dense, juicy and bright-fruited with pome and stone fruit and citrus, underpinned by yeast, a smoky-reductive edge and minerality.

Romain and Damien Bouchard founded Domaine de l'Enclos in 2016 from 29 hectares of family vineyards and converted the entire estate to organic viticulture; since 2017, biodynamic principles have also shaped their work. In the cellar, wild yeasts do the work, stainless steel and used wooden barrels provide the framework, and no fining is carried out.