Argent, Brut 2017

The Argent Brut 2017 is a single-varietal Chardonnay from Penedès, drawing its complexity from extended bottle ageing. In the glass it glows lemon yellow with silver reflections, the perlage is fine. The nose is intense: citrus fruit and white blossom up front, followed by ripe apple, a hint of walnut and a light herbal spice.

The grapes come from the 23-year-old Mas Escorpí vineyard, where the Chardonnay grows on limestone soils. Gramona has been working in Sant Sadurní d'Anoia since 1850, where limestone and fossil deposits define the subsoil. In 2000 the Batlle i Gramona family converted their entire 150 hectares to organic farming; Javier Gramona and his team regard the vineyards as a living ecosystem.

Only 50 percent of the must is gently pressed from whole clusters. The wine then ages 44 months under natural cork on the bottle, riddled and disgorged by hand. The dosage is 6 grams, the alcohol content 12.0 percent. Small yields result in only a limited quantity.

Powerful, mineral and slightly saline, with fine acidity and a distinctly present perlage. Citrus aromas and delicate apple fruit bring freshness, while the nutty finish adds a creamy, full-bodied nuance that lingers.

With oysters and with pan-fried pikeperch with parsnip purée and parsley. Serve at 8 to 10 °C.

The label carries the Demeter logo. Ageing under natural cork as well as riddling and disgorging by hand remain manual craftsmanship, evident in the wine's texture and length.