Aus den Gärten Riesling Federspiel trocken 2017

The Aus den Gärten Riesling Federspiel trocken 2017 is a dry Riesling from the biodynamically farmed vineyards of Nikolaihof in the Wachau, showing just how much ageing potential this category can hold. In the glass it shines brilliant golden yellow with delicate pale green hues. The nose presents ripe, precise fruit of nectarine, mirabelle plum and cantaloupe melon alongside candied bergamot and lemon zest. Beneath lies a layered spice of ginger, turmeric, coriander seed, fennel pollen, anise and white pepper, together with vegetal notes of spring turnip, artichoke and parsley root. The turmeric lends a soft warmth without ever pushing to the fore.

The vines grow on loess, loam and Danube gravel. The Saahs family has farmed Nikolaihof since 1894, biodynamically per Demeter since 1971, running the 22 hectares as a living organism: wild herbs between the vine rows, green lizards on the stone terraces.

100% Riesling. In the Roman-vaulted cellar, the musts ferment spontaneously in large oak casks. This Federspiel then aged for eight years on fine lees in the large, old 12,000-litre wooden cask and was bottled in March 2026 on a fruit day. 12.5% vol.

Dense, remarkably long, with vertical tension. The extended lees ageing lends depth without turning creamy: pressure, power and precision define the mouthfeel, joined by compact phenolics, saline contours and a stony minerality. The long finish reveals surprisingly bright nuances, with the nose's spice returning only gradually.

Eight years of cask ageing is unusual for a Federspiel and accounts for the density at 12.5% vol. This extended ageing in a large wooden cask is the hallmark of Nikolaihof, regarded as the world's oldest Demeter estate; its cellar sits on Roman foundations dating to 63 BC.