Grolleau IGP 2019

A single-varietal Grolleau from Ambillou-Château in Anjou, dark in fruit and cool in stature. Dense purple with violet highlights. The nose shows black cherry, blackberry and blueberry, along with liquorice, dark chocolate and warm leather, seasoned with cinnamon, juniper, black pepper and eucalyptus. In the background, dried blackberry leaves and green tea.

The roughly 55-year-old vines are rooted in loamy-silty soil over sandstone as well as in red flint over tuffeau. The estate sits 90 metres above sea level, 120 kilometres from the Atlantic, with warm days and cool nights. The conversion to biodynamic farming took place in 2000. Anne-Claude Leflaive acquired the estate in 2008 together with Christian Jacques; after her death in 2015, Christian Jacques and winemaker Sylvain Potin have continued to run it.

Grolleau is native to the Loire and usually ends up in off-dry Rosé d'Anjou; the variety was rarely vinified as a single varietal before Claude and Nelly Pichard did so. Yield stands at 25 hl/ha. Hand-harvested into 12-kilo crates, destemmed, 30 days of fermentation with only occasional pumping-over. 30 percent aged for twelve months on fine lees in Burgundian pièces between five and seven years old, 70 percent in large foudres, with the blend then spending six months in stainless steel.

Juiciness, minerality and a restrained, silky tannin intertwine. Velvety and cool at once, the dark berry fruit and spice carry far, the acidity sits well integrated. The finish remains clear and precise.

Côte de boeuf with pommes allumette, braised wild boar shoulder with caramelised pumpkin wedges and Brussels sprouts, and lamb tongue with red lentils and a lukewarm sherry-raisin vinaigrette.

Certified biodynamic, Demeter logo on the label. 13.0% ABV, dry.