Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge AOC 2022

On the nose, garrigue with sage, thyme and lavender, alongside liquorice, a touch of leather, cherries, blackberries, blueberries and forest floor. Ripe and full-bodied, yet lively and fresh: a sensual, complex wine that already seduces.

Clos des Papes has belonged to the Avril family since 1896, who have been established in Châteauneuf-du-Pape since the 1700s. The namesake parcel lies beside the ruins of the popes' castle, surrounded by historic walls. Across 32 hectares, Vincent Avril farms 25 parcels, organic since 2010/2011. The round galets store warmth during the day and release it to the vines at night. In 2022, hail destroyed 40 percent of the harvest; the yield came to 16 hl/ha, less than half the 35 hl/ha permitted by the appellation.

65 percent Grenache, 20 percent Mourvèdre, 10 percent Syrah and 5 percent other varieties permitted within the appellation. Since 1991, the estate has fully destemmed its grapes. After a day of cool pre-fermentation maceration, the wine ferments spontaneously in concrete vat for two weeks and without pigeage; malolactic fermentation also takes place in tank. It then rests on fine lees for twelve months in large, old foudres of 20 to 55 hectolitres. No new oak is used.

Warmth is noticeable, heat is not. Ripe, concentrated fruit and spice stand against freshness and minerality, underpinned by a deep earthiness of woodland soil and peat, hints of kirsch and plenty of liquorice. The tannins are round and present, the core dense with spice around which the dark fruit wraps.

Vincent Avril deliberately bottles just one red and one white cuvée, with no prestige bottling alongside. His great-grandfather Paul Avril helped draft France's first AOC rules, while Régis Avril supplied Presidents de Gaulle and Pompidou. The corks have come from the same Portuguese producer since 1926.