Dits del Terra 2018

A wine of two faces. The nose is dark and opulent: blackberry, cassis, liquorice, tar and dark chocolate, alongside black olive, rosemary, sage and thyme, plus violet and pansy, black pepper, juniper, graphite, mint and eucalyptus over cool slate. On the palate, the picture shifts toward coolness and finesse.

The Carignan vines grow on a scorching south-facing slope in the slate soils of Priorat, with the winery based in Torroja del Priorat. Dominik Huber farms 15 hectares organically and biodynamically, countering the hot summers with biodynamic preparations in the vineyard and a very early harvest. Head winemaker is Tatjana Peceric.

Pure Carignan, fermented as whole clusters since 2009: the berries remain whole, with no punch-downs or pump-overs. After around ten days of fermentation, the basket press extracts with minimal pressure, as oxidation is not desired. Ageing takes place entirely in Stockinger foudre. 13.5 % ABV, dry — this alcohol level is mandated by the D.O. for a wine with a designation of origin.

Morello cherry and redcurrant come across juicy and tart, the acidity present and finely integrated. The slate shows as racy spice and cool minerality, the tannin remains delicate and silky. The finish carries morello cherry and blueberry for a very long time.

Braised veal cheeks with rocket polenta and cranberries, pink-cooked pigeon breast with artichoke bottoms, chard and port jus, or roasted carrots with harissa, pomegranate and chickpea purée.

In the cellar, Huber aims to do without new oak in the long run; the Dits del Terra is one of the estate's few wines aged entirely in foudre. The credo "infusion rather than extraction" is designed to avoid ever fully drawing out colour, extract and tannin. Given its fruit concentration, Huber used to fondly call this wine the "US cuvée".