Grüner Veltliner Riede Braunsdorfer "Fuchs & Dachs" 2017

The Grüner Veltliner Riede Braunsdorfer "Fuchs & Dachs" 2017 by HM Lang is a dry white wine from Krems that combines juiciness with lightness. In the glass, a radiant, pale golden yellow with silvery reflections.

The Riede Braunsdorfer lies near Stein an der Donau, where Markus and Heideline Lang farm 2.5 hectares, alongside the Steiner Schreck vineyard. The vines here are 80 to 100 years old. Ageing takes place deep within the gneiss of the hill, in a bomb-proof tunnel from the Second World War at a constant 9 °C.

Single-varietal Grüner Veltliner, harvested not by sugar content but by pH value, here at pH 3.0. Pressing is done on a self-built beam press with 100 tonnes of pressure, over several days in the open air, yielding 80 percent juice extraction instead of the usual 68 to 72 percent. Spontaneous fermentation follows, along with two to three years on full lees in wooden barrels, ceramic amphorae and stoneware, with minimal sulphur.

On the nose, ripe pear, ripe apple and white blossom, plenty of juiciness combined with fine definition. On the palate, a multi-faceted structure, with precise acidity running across the tongue. Powerful and invigorating, yet light.

White tomato mousse with cucumber and basil, crispy poussin on spinach salad with pomegranate seeds or turbot in tarragon-white wine butter with vegetable julienne.

Demeter-certified; the name honours the animals in the vineyard. Markus Lang built aircraft for 25 years before inheriting a neglected vineyard 15 years ago. The canopy walls stand 2.4 metres tall, with around 12,000 bottles produced annually.