Grüner Veltliner Riede Steiner Schreck "Dritter Akt" unfiltriert 2017

A Grüner Veltliner at 12.0% ABV that carries density and lightness at once: finely woven, taut, with nerve. The name "Dritter Akt" (Third Act) refers to the only Veltliner from the estate still aged entirely in a large wooden foudre.

The Steiner Schreck vineyard lies in Stein an der Donau in the Kremstal, on gneiss soil. Here and in the Braunsdorfer vineyard, Markus and Heideline Lang farm 2.5 hectares of 80- to 100-year-old vines. The canopy walls stand 2.4 metres tall.

Harvest decisions are made not by sugar content but by pH value — 3.0 for the Grüner Veltliner. Pressing takes place over several days outdoors on a self-built basket press exerting 100 tonnes of pressure, yielding an 80% juice extraction. After spontaneous fermentation, the wine ages for two to three years on full lees in a large wooden foudre, inside a bombproof World War II tunnel deep in the gneiss at a constant 9°C. Bottled unfiltered, with minimal sulphur.

The nose opens flinty, smoky and yeasty, then reveals vineyard peach, pear, apricot, rose blossom, chamomile and a hint of white nougat, framed by distinct herbal notes and a touch of ginger. On the palate, the acidity runs taut throughout, embedded in fruit and body. The mouth waters, and everything feels weightless and fine-boned, including the moderate alcohol.

Lukewarm salmon with lime and chilli marinade, char ceviche on orange and fennel, and cucumber stuffed with avocado, tomato and roasted pistachios.

Markus Lang spent 25 years designing aircraft for Airbus and the US Air Force before inheriting a neglected vineyard and building his own basket press. The estate is Demeter-certified and bottles around 12,000 bottles a year.