La Dulce Quietud 2016-2020 500ml

A lusciously sweet white wine from Toro that holds both richness and freshness at once. At 9.0% vol. it remains light-footed, glowing golden yellow with amber reflections in the glass. The nose opens a cornucopia: acacia blossom honey and raisins first, then hay, dried herbs and a spice trail of clove, cardamom, cinnamon and a distant hint of saffron. Deeper down lie apricot, date, fig, candied lemon zest and ginger, underscored by firm notes of grated almonds and roasted hazelnuts.

Quinta de la Quietud sits at 700 metres above sea level, two kilometres south of the Duero. The sandy soils, with a sand content of 55 to 85 percent, are phylloxera-free, so the goblet-trained bush vines grow on their own roots and require no irrigation. Horses plough between the rows. The continental climate swings between minus 11 degrees in winter and plus 37 degrees in summer, with only 350 millimetres of rainfall a year.

Malvasia dominates, complemented by Albillo, Muscat, Palomino and Verdejo from plantings dating between 1920 and 1988. The raisined grapes ferment for three months in French oak barriques, without the addition of yeasts or fermentation aids. Ageing of at least three years follows in the same barrel.

The entry shows a wild, almost bracing tension, then the fruit arrives clear and precise, never overshadowing anything. The sweetness stays restrained, the acidity works actively and keeps the wine lively. No syrupy impression, but depth with structure: candied mango, candied pineapple and banana chips take up space, joined again by acacia blossom honey and raisin, with fine traces of maple, cardamom and saffron.

A rarity in a limited edition of 1000 bottles, blended from five vintages spanning 2016 to 2020. Responsible is Jean-François Hébrard, trained in Bordeaux, with stints at Château Haut-Brion and Château Cheval Blanc, in Toro since 1999.