Côte Rôtie "Côteaux de Tupin" AOC 2020

In its youth, the wine opens explosively and initially seems almost overwhelming. With plenty of air, it finds its balance: the opulence recedes, stone and cool spice gain definition, and finesse emerges from the aromatic richness. A distinctive Côte Rôtie of depth, structure and length that above all demands one thing: time.

The grapes come from 0.5 hectares of steep terraced vineyard on leucogneiss in Tupin. Jean-Michel Stephan acquired this vineyard in 1991; its oldest vines date back to 1893. The plots destined for the Côteaux de Tupin were planted partly in 1941, partly in 1993. Yields remain extremely low, at 15 to 20 hectolitres per hectare. The house farms 4.5 hectares of steep terraced vineyard in Côte-Rôtie, since 2017 together with Romain Stephan.

100% Serine, a grape variety once considered nearly extinct and closely related to Syrah and Dureza; the estate preserves it through massal selection. Vinification follows the principles of Jules Chauvet: a cold pre-fermentation maceration over 24 hours, followed by cold carbonic maceration over 20 days. This is followed by 24 months in used oak barrels from the forest of Jupille. The wine was neither filtered nor fined, and only minimally sulphured.

On the nose, cassis, blackberry, black cherry, elderberry and fig, alongside violet pastilles, lilac, olive tapenade, black pepper and liquorice. On the palate, the full concentration shows itself without ever feeling heavy: dark berries, olive and a juicy, slightly sweet-seeming fruit core, along with ink and violet-toned spice. The tannin is dry and firm, medium-grained; a cool acidity runs through the powerful body. With air, the wine gains precision and reveals its stony, pulsing minerality.

Work on these steep terraced vineyards is done largely by hand; horses assist with soil cultivation, and winches are used on the steepest plots. Bottling takes place at the estate in Tupin-et-Semons. 13.0% vol., dry.