Steiner Hund, Riesling trocken 2016

A Riesling that begins quietly and lingers for a long time. The texture radiates calm, ripe acidity and stimulating phenolics intertwine harmoniously, while the alcohol remains moderate at 12.5% ABV. Youthful and fresh in the glass, which should ideally be large rather than small.

Beneath a thin layer of topsoil, the vine roots penetrate deep into the hard primary rock. These conditions impart balance, a pronounced mineral character, and refined elegance to the wines. The Nikolaihof in Mautern in the Wachau is considered Austria's oldest wine estate; the Saahs family has cultivated the estate since 1894, with Nikolaus Saahs taking over management in 2005.

100 percent Riesling. The musts ferment spontaneously in large Slavonian oak casks, while a 350-year-old wooden beam press operates in the Roman vaulted cellar. The wine matured for about three years in wooden casks holding 2,000 to 5,000 litres, and was bottled on a fruit day.

The nose reveals fresh coriander, borage, and cress mingling with small, plump pears, yellow, waxy apples, lemongrass, and small peaches. The entry is subtle rather than loud, after which a creamy texture carries the ripe acidity. Two hours of aeration will do it wonders; decanting is strongly recommended.

Nikolaihof has farmed according to biodynamic principles since 1971: nettle manure, valerian drops, and horsetail tea instead of herbicides, pesticides, or fungicides. The estate is Demeter-certified and the only certified biodynamic producer in the Wachau. Wild herbs grow between the vines across the 22 hectares, while emerald lizards bask on the stone terraces.