Riesling Marienburg Grosse Lage "Raffes" 2021

The Riesling Marienburg Grosse Lage «Raffes» 2021 is the densest and most concentrated wine from the Clemens Busch estate. Its aromatic density comes without heaviness: cool, ethereal, laced with herbaceous spice. Off-dry, 12.5% vol., with long ageing potential.

The Falkenlay parcel lies between Fahrlay and Rothenpfad. The soil here is deep and defined by grey slate; the mountain saddle to the east shields the terraces from cold winds, allowing the grapes to reach a particular ripeness. To the old winegrowers, this area was regarded as the prime cut of the Marienburg, where eleven of the estate's twenty hectares of steep slopes lie.

Riesling, harvested as a selection of healthy grapes from one of the oldest terraces in the Falkenlay, listed in the land registry as RAFFES. In the cellar, 80 percent of the wines ferment spontaneously in centuries-old 1000-litre casks, without cultured yeasts, without enzymes, without fining; extended ageing on fine lees adds further complexity. Clemens Busch stopped using herbicides in 1976 and has farmed biodynamically since 1986; the oldest vines root up to eight metres deep into the slate bedrock.

The nose is led by vine peach, apricot and orange zest, followed by wet stone, flint, warm slate soil and cold smoke, alongside elderberry, raspberry, sage, mint and lemon balm. On entry the wine builds pressure and picks up pace, with the fruit stepping back behind minerality and acid structure. The mouthfeel stays cool and stony, the herbaceous spice lingering for minutes.

Recommended with grilled skate wing with Mediterranean roasted vegetables and beurre blanc, breaded artichoke bottoms with lemon-cream dip and vitello tonnato with fried capers.

The capsule colour reveals the slate type: red, grey or blue. Grey slate stands for taut elegance. The estate's wines feature on the lists of five three-star restaurants.