Rufo blanc VdF 2023

A savoury white wine built around herbal spice and salinity. On the nose it starts out reductive and restrained, yet stays clear, earthy and mineral: anise, chamomile and honey form an unusual composition, lifted by an abundance of herbs, while bitter almond and green walnut add contrasting notes, and quince and tart apple lend a delicate fruitiness.

Domaine Matassa is located in Calce, in Roussillon. Tom Lubbe, a New Zealander with South African roots, and his wife Nathalie farm 20 hectares in the hills around Calce and Espira-de-l'Agly, high-altitude garrigue parcels up to around 450 metres, often surrounded by Mediterranean scrubland. The soils: schist and marl, black schist, black marl. Many parcels carry vines aged 60 to 120 years. Ecocert certifies their work: cover-cropped soils, compost, manual labour, no chemicals.

Pure Macabeu. Tom Lubbe harvests early, and his wines rarely exceed 12% alcohol; this one carries 10.0% ABV on the label. The estate's white wines ferment on the skins, a practice in place since the 2008 Alexandria. Spontaneous fermentation, no fining, no filtration, no added sulphur since 2015. In the cellar, Lubbe uses large wooden foudres, barriques, clay, concrete and, preferably, fibreglass.

Approachable without losing complexity. It comes across juicy despite moderate acidity, with the tannins providing the fresh core and drinkability. It lingers long, spreading saline, savoury spice notes that combine herbal spice and salinity. In places the tannic structure still shows a touch of youth and green edges. This wine handles richness well.

Dense golden yellow with bright highlights and visible sediment, a result of skipping filtration. Vin de France, dry, 10.0% ABV.