Vinothek Riesling trocken "Fass Severin" 1997

A Riesling that, after 25 years, appears younger than its age: fully mature without any signs of fatigue. The nose reveals green apricot layered with elderflower, acacia and linden blossom, accompanied by lemon balm and linseed oil, with subtle dried fruit in the background. Primary fruit is not the focus here; tasted over three days, its aromatic profile continued to evolve constantly.

Nikolaihof in Mautern is Austria’s oldest wine estate, built upon ancient Roman foundations. The Saahs family has cultivated the property since 1894, transitioning to biodynamic farming in 1971; Nikolaus Saahs took over estate management in 2005. Across 22 hectares in the Wachau, Riesling and Grüner Veltliner thrive among wild herbs; instead of herbicides, pesticides, and fungicides, the estate relies on stinging nettle manure, valerian drops, and horsetail tea.

100% Riesling, spontaneously fermented and aged in "Fass Severin"—a hand-carved 3,300-litre wooden cask housed in the historic Roman cellar where the reserves for late and Vinothek bottlings mature. It is named after Saint Severin, who lived in Mautern. The 1997 vintage saw an initial Vinothek bottling in 2014; this second bottling was drawn off the wood in spring 2022. 13.0% ABV.

Uncompromisingly dry and stripped of primary fruit, revealing instead the concentrated extract of dried green apricots. A creamy melt, saline character, and subtle resinous nuances are met with noble, invigoratingly savoury tannins. The acidity is ultra-fine and elongated, leading into a saline finish, while the texture remains silky and extract-rich.

Porcini ravioli in sage butter, skate wing with capers and lemon in a salted-butter beurre blanc, or calf's lights (Beuschel) with bread dumplings and lamb's lettuce.

Nikolaihof is recognized as the oldest Demeter-certified wine estate in the world and remains the only certified biodynamic producer in the Wachau. A 350-year-old historic wooden beam press is still operated in the vaulted cellar. Decant well in advance—ideally one to two days before serving—and enjoy from a universal glass.