Vom Stein, Riesling Smaragd trocken 2004

A Riesling that does not conceal its twenty years, but plays them to its advantage: fully mature, having reached its peak of development, with concentrated spice and 12.5% ABV. Nikolaihof released it from the cellar in 2024 as an Archive Release.

The Mautern vineyard »vom Stein« is a site within a site: it belongs to the »Silberbichl« vineyard and borders the »Zaum« site in Mautern and »Am Zaum« in Furth. A precise 4.2 hectares climbing north-northeast up the slope from 209 to 237 metres, characterised by deep-trenched soils with loam, loess, and Danube gravel.

Single-varietal Riesling from the Wachau. In Nikolaihof's Roman vaulted cellar, a 350-year-old tree press is still in use; the musts ferment spontaneously in large Slavonian oak casks, where some wines mature for a decade or more. The Saahs family has cultivated the estate since 1894, farming biodynamically according to Demeter standards since 1971.

The delicate interplay of acidity complements the open-knit texture, uniting the full spectrum of aromas on the palate: papaya, mango, and orange slices, underpinned by aniseed, fennel seeds, toasted pumpkin seeds, and bay leaves. Retronasally, it delivers veritable fireworks. At medium intensity, the finish asserts itself with balanced drive and fine length.

Nikolaihof stands on the foundations of the Roman fort Favianis dating back to 63 BC; the vineyard »Im Weingebirge« is considered the earliest documented vineyard in Europe, recorded as far back as 470 AD. The estate was Austria's first Demeter-certified winery and remains the only certified biodynamic producer in the Wachau today. Across its 22 hectares, wild herbs thrive between the vines, while emerald lizards bask on the stone terraces.