BAM! 2013+Réserve Perpetuelle Brut Nature

At Tarlant, Brut Nature means no dosage — nothing that could be corrected afterwards. The BAM! accordingly stands exposed, bone-dry and taut, with lemon zest, green apple and white blossom over a saline backbone.

Champagne Tarlant has worked in Œuilly since 1687, now in its twelfth generation with Benoît and Mélanie Tarlant. 14 hectares are spread across more than 55 parcels, farmed according to organic principles and oriented towards biodynamic practices, though the estate does not pursue certification. Herbicides and synthetic pesticides are excluded.

BAM! stands for Blanc, Arbane, Meslier. 46 percent Petit Meslier is joined by Pinot Blanc and Arbane, three varieties nearly extinct in Champagne, which Benoît Tarlant cultivates for their late ripening as a response to climate change: "Diversity among the plants is the key to becoming more resilient." Fermentation takes place in barrel with wild yeasts, without malolactic fermentation, without filtration, without any added sugar. The Réserve Perpetuelle combines the 2013 vintage with older reserves in an ongoing system.

The acidity carries the wine, quince and lemon remain clearly defined, the bead is fine. The finish stays saline and long.

Oysters and prawns, grilled fish, white meat. For cheese, goat cheese and Comté. Also smoked salmon as well as Asian dishes with fresh herbs and citrus notes.

Since the late 1970s, the estate has bottled Champagne without dosage; today 90 percent of production is Brut Nature. Tarlant cultivates all seven grape varieties permitted in Champagne. 12.0% Vol.