Barbaresco Starderi DOCG 2023 1500ml Magnum

A Barbaresco that impresses less through power than through inner tension, complexity and finesse. On the nose, rosehip, elderberry, mulberry and sour cherry, followed by ripe fig, liquorice and bitter chocolate in the sense of freshly grated cocoa beans; rose, hibiscus and violet blossoms give the whole a lightness, while air brings out lavender honey and fresh hazelnut.

The Starderi cru ranks among Barbaresco's top sites. Its cooler, north-facing position gives the Nebbiolo vibrant acidity and floral elegance; the chalky, earthy nuances in the glass point to this origin. Olek Bondonio farms seven hectares spread across Roncagliette, Starderi, Altavilla, Neive and Catagnole delle Lanze. His Cascina La Berchialla represents a family heritage of over 200 years; his great-great-great-grandfather was among the co-founders of the Produttori del Barbaresco in 1894.

Pure Nebbiolo, vinified dry, 13.5% Vol. Biodynamic principles shape everyday work in the vineyards without ever becoming a marketing claim. Bottled in Magnum format of 1500 ml.

Direct and precise, at once generous and deep. The tannin feels remarkably melted for a wine of this age, then slowly builds and takes over as the structural backbone. The aromatics turn darker than on the nose: violet, ripe fig and sour cherry, joined by black pepper, juniper and the roasted notes of coffee and cocoa. The fruit stays tightly knit, never broadening out. On the finish an aromatic freshness emerges, rosemary and thyme, with a trace of lavender honey running through it.

Seven hectares yield limited quantities, making these wines rare and sought after. Bondonio, who returned from professional snowboarding to take over the family estate, has set up a skateboard half-pipe between the barrels in his cellar; there is no tasting room.