Bukkuram "Sole d'Agosto" Passito di Pantelleria DOC 2022

The Bukkuram "Sole d'Agosto" Passito di Pantelleria DOC 2022 is a lusciously sweet Zibibbo from the volcanic island of Pantelleria, deep amber in the glass with a silky, matte sheen. The nose is generous and unabashed: mandarin blossom, orange peel, candied citrus and apricot, along with pineapple caramelised in salted butter and lots of lemon curd, underscored by fine saline notes and a warm sea breeze.

Bukkuram, from the Arabic for "father of the vineyard", is the historic heartland of Zibibbo cultivation on Pantelleria. On the island's only southwest-facing plateau lie five hectares of vineyard and the winery, housed in an 18th-century dammuso. Marco de Bartoli bottled the first Bukkuram here in 1984; today his son Sebastiano tends the island.

A pure Zibibbo from low, free-standing bush vines trained as Alberello Pantesco. Part of the grapes are picked in mid-August and dried in the sun for two weeks, while the rest ripen on the vine until September. After pressing and spontaneous fermentation, the destemmed raisined berries are added to the must and macerate there for around three months. This is followed by at least six months in oak barrels, then ageing in stainless steel tank.

Creamy, velvety texture shot through with citrus oil, green mandarin, orange zest and orange blossom water. Saline minerality and a smoky note keep the sweetness in check, and the finish lingers long, with quince jelly on salted butter brioche.

Blue cheese, aged pecorino, cannoli or pastries with candied fruit, and equally rewarding enjoyed alone to close a meal.

The double harvest brings together raisined berries and grapes left to ripen longer on the vine. The Alberello Pantesco is protected by UNESCO, the grapes are hand-picked, and fermentation relies on native yeasts.