Chablis Clos Béru Monopole AOC 2022

A ripe, dense Chardonnay that comes across as open and unadorned, bringing plenty of power and drive. The low-intervention approach remains palpable: the wine feels alive rather than polished, highly complex yet approachable.

Clos Béru is the monopole vineyard of Château de Béru in eastern Chablis, five hectares in size, at 300 metres altitude and enclosed by a 13th-century wall. The slope faces due south, not very steep but with a clear gradient and very stony ground, the soil typical Kimmeridgian limestone with fossilised oyster shells. The monks traced the boundaries of the clos along the terroir, which is why it takes the shape of an irregular trapezoid.

Chardonnay from biodynamic farming, Demeter-certified. Athénais de Béru has run the estate since 2004; the soils are worked with horses, and the biodynamic preparations are made by the estate itself. Fermentation happens spontaneously with the estate's own yeasts, ageing the first year in tonneaux, then in tank. Bottling was carried out by Gaëlle Ribé at the new winery, with minimal sulphur.

The acidity feels silky at first and grows ever more insistent, the energy becoming increasingly pronounced. This is joined by generous dry extract and green and yellow fruit, some of it crisp, some fleshier. Towards the end come oyster shell, salt and minerality, the finish intense and long.

As a Premier Cru, Clos Béru has never been classified: at the time of the early death of Comte Eric de Béru, the vineyard was leased out, and the family showed no interest in pursuing classification. Historically, the Clos has always been regarded on a par with good Premier Cru sites.