Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru AOC 2023

Quiet greatness rather than grand gesture: pure, juicy fruit, fine astringency and the taut, saline line that runs through all of the estate's wines. Slender yet deep, with silky tannin and a long mineral finish. A wine that demands patience and gains complexity over decades.

The Chambertin-Clos de Bèze lies in the Côte de Nuits and stands as the crown jewel of the Bruno Clair estate. Part of the vines were planted in 1912; they yield tiny crops and wines of noble intensity. The domaine, based in Marsannay-la-Côte, farms 27 hectares across eight villages of the Côte d'Or and bottles 32 appellations. Its origins trace back to Clair-Daü, and after that estate's dissolution in 1985 Bruno Clair took over seven hectares, building his own domaine from 1986 onward.

Pinot Noir. In the cellar, the rule is: as much as necessary, as little as possible. Spontaneous fermentation, measured extraction, 20 to 50 percent whole clusters in the fermentation vat, followed by 18 to 20 months in barrique with 20 to 50 percent new oak. Time handles the clarification, and bottling is done without cosmetic adjustment. In the vineyards, cover crops and a refusal of herbicides are standard practice; the sixth generation works with more whole clusters and less sulphur.

Dark cherry and forest berries, with violet, herbal spice and a hint of undergrowth. The tannin stays fine, the finish saline and long.

Partridge with truffle jus, duck breast, herb-crusted rack of lamb or aged Époisses. Beef fillet in red wine jus and earthy dishes with porcini mushrooms also suit its depth.

The plot planted in 1912 ranks among the estate's finest parcels. The house keeps a low profile, demand is high, and allocations are scarce. 13.0% ABV, dry.