Châteauneuf-du-Pape rouge AOC 2021

A powerful red wine from the southern Rhône Valley, its nose combining dark fruit and spice in equal measure: morello cherry, blackberry and blueberry, a hint of cassis, alongside juniper berry, mixed peppercorns ranging from red to green to black, bay leaf and nutmeg. With patience, rosehip, rooibos, roasted coffee and dark chocolate emerge, followed unexpectedly by mint and kaffir lime leaf.

The Arménier family first appears as winegrowers in the tax registers of Châteauneuf-du-Pape in 1344. Today, Sophie Arménier and her son Vincent Estevenin run Domaine de Marcoux, 18 hectares spread across seven terroirs. This blend draws on 13 plots with correspondingly varied soils; its power comes from the galets roulés. The estate has farmed biodynamically since 1990, one of the first in the region to do so.

80% Grenache Noir, complemented by 10% Mourvèdre, 7% Syrah and 3% Cinsault. The grapes are hand-harvested and sorted three times, the last on a sorting table in the cellar. They are fully destemmed, lightly crushed and cold-macerated; fermentation runs at controlled temperature with native yeasts, with the cap of skins pumped over daily. After around five weeks of maceration, the wine is aged for 18 months mainly in concrete tanks, complemented by foudres and 350-litre oak barrels.

The attack shows wide-open fruit, oscillating between red and black, with a warming effect. Gripping acidity keeps the fruit in balance, while the tannin carries green accents and lends freshness, juiciness and a meaty, bloody note. Dry, 14.5% vol.

Côte de boeuf with potato and truffle gratin and an oriental-spiced jus, grilled scorpionfish with roasted Mediterranean vegetables, or, for a vegetarian option, whole braised celeriac with parsley pesto and roasted hazelnuts.

The 13 plots bring differing degrees of ripeness into the cellar, which is why selection begins already in the vineyard. Ageing mainly in concrete tanks holds back oak character and lets fruit and spice take centre stage.