Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes AOC 2021

Power with fine contours: it is not fruit that drives this wine, but an ethereal, balsamic spice, carried by extremely fine tannin. Deep and dark, still closed, it stands at the beginning of its life, a sleeping giant.

The grapes come from two parcels. In Charbonnières, on the northern slopes of the La Crau plateau, lie 2.3 hectares planted 98 percent to Grenache, some vines dating back to 1900, complemented by tiny amounts of Mourvèdre and other varieties. In Les Esqueirons, a further hectare of Grenache grows on the west-facing slopes of the fortress, planted in 1949. Sophie Armenier and her son Vincent Estevenin farm the estate's 18 hectares; a tax register from 1344 already lists the Armenier family as winegrowers in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

All parcels are harvested at the same time. Selection takes place first in the vineyard, then on the sorting table. The grapes are fully destemmed, lightly crushed and cold-macerated; fermentation runs at controlled temperature, with the cap punched down daily by pump-over. After around four weeks of maceration come pressing, malolactic fermentation, racking and blending. Ageing takes place mainly in concrete tanks, complemented by large oak casks (foudres).

The tannin coats the mouth in a fine grain and carries the aromatics. The fruit takes a back seat, while coffee, chocolate and spice repeatedly break through and salty liquorice returns. Freshness and green contrasts keep the Mediterranean picture alive; it carries its 15.5 percent alcohol effortlessly, and the length is very good.

Braised beef shoulder with glazed baby turnips and rosemary jus, roasted rack of lamb with bean cassoulet, or oven-roasted beetroot with basil pesto and sourdough crumble.

Domaine de Marcoux has farmed biodynamically since 1990, one of the first estates in the region to do so. The Vieilles Vignes Grenache vines are pre-phylloxera and over 120 years old, and every bunch passes through three checks.