Königsbacher Ölberg-Hart Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2022

The Ölberg-Hart Grosses Gewächs 2022 is a dry Riesling from Königsbach in the Pfalz, grown on heavy limestone marl high on the Haardt slope. Still restrained in its youth, it is carried by a combination of power, salinity and cool acidity.

The Hart parcel forms the core of the Ölberg site, lies around the Ölberg-Wegkapelle wayside chapel, and is classified as a VDP.Grosse Lage. The vineyard sits high on the Haardt slope, at the mouth of the Klausental valley emerging from the Palatinate Forest: catching morning sun early, falling into the shadow of the mountains early in the evening, and cooled at night by a current of air flowing down from the valley. The soil is very heavy tertiary limestone marl, terra fusca, mixed in the topsoil with pebbles of variegated sandstone.

Riesling, 100 percent selective hand harvest into small crates, spontaneous fermentation in large wooden cask, 12.0% vol. The oldest part of the parcel long produced the auction wine Kapelle; since 2020 the estate has vinified this Grosses Gewächs from the entire parcel.

With a little air, pear, apple and apricot emerge, joined by physalis, mango, pineapple and kiwi, framed by white pepper, coriander and mustard flour. The wine moves powerfully and densely across the palate, its juicy fruit returning with salty minerality and taut acidity. The long finish carries an invigorating bitter note.

Smoked tofu with wild herb salad, monkfish wrapped in bacon on pearl barley risotto, or lobster with tarragon butter, sugar snap peas and ribbon pasta. Decant and serve not too cold in large glasses.

The A. Christmann estate in Gimmeldingen has existed since 1798; Steffen Christmann has run it since 1996 as the seventh generation, joined by his daughter Sophie since 2018. Biodynamic since 2003, certified per respekt-BIODYN and EU organic. Across 17 hectares, only Riesling and Pinot are grown.