Cornas "Brise Cailloux" 2022

An intense, energetic Syrah of deep purple hue that openly displays its fruit and spice. The nose shows raspberry, blackberry, plum and cherry, overlaid with rose, violet and anise, alongside a hint of smoked ham, pepper, verbena and blood orange zest.

The grapes come from Cornas in the northern Rhône. Two-thirds grow in younger plantings at the foot of the slope and in the middle section of the coteaux, while one-third comes from older vines. The Domaine du Coulet's 20 hectares lie on steep, south-facing terraces carved into the granite bedrock. The average vine age is 40 to 55 years, with a yield of 23 hectoliters per hectare.

100% Syrah, fermented as whole clusters with wild yeasts, the cap gently punched down. Aging lasts 18 months in 10-hectoliter clay vessels and in concrete. Matthieu Barret has farmed biodynamically since 2002; since 2012, mules and horses have taken over the work of tractors, and since the 2017 vintage no barrique has been used. No oenological additives, no fining, no filtration, sulfur added only at bottling.

The youthful Syrah aromatics carry through, borne by lively acidity and vibrant minerality. Pungent, spicy, bitter notes sharpen the picture. The wine remains juicy and iodine-tinged, the tannin fine yet pronounced, the slightly smoky finish long. At 12.5% Vol., it remains remarkably light on its feet.

Pairs well with braised lamb, roast beef, game dishes with dark juniper sauce and pan-seared duck breast.

Concrete and clay instead of wood: forgoing barrel aromas allows the granite-driven texture of this Cornas to come through unobscured.