Côte-Rotie "Tupin's" 2023

Matthieu Barret runs Domaine du Coulet in its seventh generation and has made a name for himself with Syrah grown on steep granite terraces. Côte-Rôtie only joined the range recently. The Tupin's 2023 shows Syrah in its purest form: dark berry fruit, violet and a spicy depth that carries no weight.

Côte-Rôtie lies in the northern Rhône, where Syrah grows on laboriously worked terraced slopes. The estate itself is based in Cornas, where 20 hectares are spread across steep, south-facing terraces cut into the granite rock. Since 2012, mules and horses have replaced tractors there, and grassed areas around the vines promote biodiversity.

Single-varietal Syrah. Barret has farmed organically since his very first vintage and received Demeter certification in 2002. His credo: 100% grape, minimal sulphur, no fining, no filtration. Fermentation takes place with whole clusters and wild yeasts, with the cap gently punched down. Since 2006 he has experimented with concrete eggs and diamond-shaped tanks; from the 2017 vintage onward, barriques disappeared entirely, so the fruit could stand without oak influence. No oenological additives are used, with sulphur added only at bottling.

Juicy and concentrated, with fine-grained tannins and dark fruit. Whole-cluster fermentation lends grip and length, and the finish stays spicy. Dry, 13.0% vol.

In Cornas, the average vine age is between 40 and 55 years, with a yield of 23 hectolitres per hectare. The nickname "Petit Ours Brun", which graces the estate's entry-level wines, was given to the winemaker by Stéphane Tissot.