Crémant d'Alsace Extra Brut 2023

A clean-lined sparkling wine from Alsace: fine, lasting perlage, clearly defined acidity, dry finish. The build is lean, the aftertaste saline. Precision takes priority over fullness here.

Domaine Albert Mann is based in Wettolsheim and farms 25 hectares, spread across almost a hundred parcels in six Grand Cru sites: Schlossberg, Hengst, Furstentum, Steingrubler, Pfersigberg and Wineck-Schlossberg. Maurice and Jacky Barthelmé, brothers-in-law, split the work between them: Maurice runs the cellar, Jacky the vineyards. They have farmed biodynamically since 1997. In the steepest parcels, horses replace tractors, keeping the soil uncompacted so the roots can reach deeper.

The cuvée brings together three Alsatian varieties: Pinot Noir for structure and grip, Auxerrois for roundness, Pinot Blanc for freshness and easy drinkability. It is bottled as Extra Brut, meaning a very low dosage, which gives this 12.0% ABV wine its dry contour.

Lemon and crisp apple lead the way, joined by white blossom and a mineral streak. The acidity lifts the wine, the perlage stays fine, and a saline note lingers at the finish.

As an aperitif with cured salmon, at the table with oysters, smoked trout or flammekueche. It stands up effortlessly to Comté.

The Crémant d'Alsace Extra Brut ranks among the region's best. In 2012, the Barthelmés were named Winemakers of the Year; a fact the estate mentions rather in passing. Antoine, the son, now works alongside them.