Cuvée "5 Sens" Brut Nature 2019

The "5 Sens" is a grower champagne from Les Riceys in the Côte des Bar, bottled without dosage and therefore at zero grams of residual sugar. Taut, chalky, spare and elegant: a sparkling wine that values its origin more than the occasion it's poured for.

Les Riceys is the only village in Champagne permitted to produce three appellations: champagne, still wine and rosé des Riceys. Beneath the vineyards lies Kimmeridgian chalk, which gives the wines their distinct minerality. The Horiot family has grown vines here since the 17th century; Olivier Horiot took over his father Serge's estate in 1999 and immediately converted it to organic farming. Since 2010 he has farmed biodynamically, ploughing the soils with horses and excluding synthetic inputs.

Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Arbanne make up the cuvée. Arbanne is one of four rare varieties Olivier Horiot cultivates alongside the classic grapes, together accounting for less than one percent of all Champagne vineyard area. Each parcel is harvested and vinified separately, with spontaneous fermentation by wild yeasts in used barriques. No filtration, no fining, minimal sulphur; the cellar is overseen by his wife Marie.

Pale gold with greenish glints, fine bead. On the nose, white blossom, lemon and green apple, followed by mirabelle plum, herbal notes from the rare varieties and chalk. On the palate, vivid acidity, chalky minerality and a long, saline finish at 12.0% ABV.

Oysters and other raw shellfish, grilled sole fillet or ceviche; also aged Comté and a simple lemon and herb chicken.

Olivier Horiot vinifies all seven permitted Champagne grape varieties and bottles every wine as Brut Nature, meaning without dosage. As a member of the growers' association Terres et Vins, he stands for a champagne rooted in its origin.