Cuvée "Ailleurs" Brut Nature 2020

The Cuvée "Ailleurs" Brut Nature 2020 is a vintage Champagne made from pure Chardonnay, grown on the Kimmeridgian chalk of Les Riceys. As a Brut Nature, it goes into the bottle without any dosage, meaning zero grams of residual sugar. What remains is structure: chalky, precise, without any sweet cushioning.

Les Riceys is the only village in Champagne permitted to produce three appellations. The Horiot family has been growing vines here since the 17th century. Olivier Horiot took over the estate from his father Serge in 1999 and immediately switched to organic farming; since 2010 he has worked biodynamically. The soils are ploughed with horses, and synthetic additives are taboo. The Kimmeridgian chalk gives the wines their pronounced minerality.

Chardonnay, single varietal. Each parcel is harvested and vinified separately, with fermentation occurring spontaneously with wild yeasts in used barriques. Marie Horiot runs the cellar. There is no fining or filtering, and sulphur use remains minimal. The wine has 12.0% ABV.

Taut and bone-dry, carried by a cutting acidity. Green apple and lemon zest lead, followed by light brioche pastry and a saline, chalky minerality that defines the long finish.

Classic with oysters and scallops, as well as with scallop sashimi or wild-caught fish. Mature Comté and a delicate veal tartare also stand up well to this chalky acidity.

Olivier Horiot bottles all his Champagnes without dosage and vinifies all seven permitted Champagne grape varieties, including the nearly extinct Arbane. He is a member of the winegrowers' association Terres et Vins.