Meunier sur Sable, non dose 2022

A Champagne poised between seriousness and joie de vivre. Finesse and drive on one side, open fruit on the other, and despite zero grams of dosage, not a trace of austerity.

Vincelles lies on the southern bank of the Marne, about 20 kilometres west of Épernay. The grapes for this cuvée grow there on sandy Eocene soils. The Blin family has been growing vines in Vincelles since 1671; Jérôme Blin took over in 2007 and began converting the estate in 2012: 6 hectares farmed along biodynamic principles, two Comtois draught horses replacing the tractor in front of the plough, and a sheep keeping the grass short between the rows. Each parcel is vinified separately.

Single-varietal Pinot Meunier from 50-year-old vines, spontaneously fermented. Ageing took place half in barrique, half in stainless steel, without malolactic fermentation. A very light filtration before bottling, no fining. Tirage in April 2023, disgorgement in April 2024, zero dosage. 2,705 bottles.

The wine opens round and silky, then becomes increasingly dry and chalky. Again there is stone fruit and citrus, along with a touch of ripe mango and Indian spices. A light extract sweetness and a fine vanilla-oak note round things off without dulling the freshness.

Pairs well with ceviche, oysters and pan-fried haddock, as well as with Comté or cauliflower with curry.

A single-vineyard Champagne made from a grape variety that, in the Vallée de la Marne, was long used mainly for blending. Foregoing dosage here is a consequence, not a label claim: healthy grapes, spontaneous fermentation, time on the lees.