Coteaux Champenois Blanc Œil de Perdrix Bio-Siegel 2022

Coteaux Champenois is Champagne's still-wine appellation, a wine without bubbles from a region almost entirely defined by sparkling wine. Œil de Perdrix, the "partridge eye," refers to the pale colour that emerges from pressing dark grapes: little more than a hint of salmon pink with a coppery rim. The aromatics stay cool and taut, with white peach, wild strawberry and redcurrant over a chalky minerality.

Vincelles lies on the southern bank of the Marne, about twenty kilometres west of Épernay. The Blin family has grown grapes there since 1671, and Jérôme Blin now farms six hectares spread across numerous lieux-dits of clay, limestone, sand and flint. Each plot is vinified separately. Conversion to organic farming began in 2012, followed by biodynamic certification in 2018: no herbicides, no synthetic fertilisers, no tractors. The Comtois draft horses Naya and Quartz plough the rows, while the sheep Chouquette keeps the grass between the vines short.

Pinot Meunier accounts for seventy percent of the estate's vineyard area and is often regarded as an underrated variety in the Vallée de la Marne, good enough for blending but rarely vinified on its own. Here it stands alone. Fermentation happens spontaneously with wild yeasts, without technical correction. For the Œil de Perdrix, the must spends only a short time in contact with the dark grape skins, just enough for colour and a touch of red fruit.

Dry, lean, 12.0% vol. Acidity leads the way, the fruit stays clearly defined, and the finish draws out saline and mineral. Serve well chilled, but not ice cold.

Trout or char, asparagus with a light sauce, sushi and sashimi, a simple chicken fricassee. Young soft cheeses also work well.