Espenyalluchs 2021

The Espenyalluchs 2021 is a dry, single-varietal Xarel·lo from the Alt Penedès. The nose leads with limestone and smoke, followed by grilled pineapple, grapefruit and nashi pear, yellow apple and physalis. Lemon balm, chervil and lemon thyme bring freshness, while artichoke, fennel and lightly toasted coriander seed add a tart twist. The palate keeps circling back to a stony core.

The Espenyalluchs parcel spans 0.91 hectares on a gentle slope at 400 metres, near Sabanell in the Alt Penedès. The Mediterranean lies 30 kilometres away, while the Montserrat massif behind acts as a barrier, driving katabatic winds and cool nights. The 2021 vintage began cold and dry, turned unusually warm in February, was held back by cool, low-rainfall spring months, and was slowed again by a rainy spell following the August heatwave. Conditions at harvest were good.

Hand-harvested into 15-kilo crates, spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts, no corrections to the must. The vines on this parcel were propagated from the genetic material of Vinya dels Taus, the vineyard Enric Soler started with in 2004. Ageing forgoes the concrete egg, aiming for a purist, mineral mouthfeel. The wine was given time to stabilise; it is neither fined nor filtered.

It shows edge immediately: acidity and salinity lead, the mineral frame lines the whole palate and leaves a saline trace. The fruit reads tarter and more citrusy, bergamot and lime define the moment, zest and kaffir lime leaves the finish. It turns juicy for moments before the acidity reasserts itself. The length is considerable.

Enric Soler was named Spain's best sommelier in 1997 and started as a winemaker in 2004. He farms just under three hectares, biodynamic since 2005, bottling around 10,000 bottles a year.