Général de la Révolution, Blanc VdF 2017

Tension and minerality define this dry Corsican white wine. The nose is fresh and, for the Général, surprisingly open: herbs and wildflowers of the maquis, chamomile, lemon verbena, thyme and peppermint, followed by lemon, grapefruit and clementine, along with green apple, pear skin and white peach. Reserved in its youth, it gains breadth over the years without ever losing its tension or minerality.

The estate lies in the Taravo valley at 150 metres above sea level, with vines growing on granitic sand soils with a natural north and northeast exposure. Jean-Charles Abbatucci has farmed the twenty hectares biodynamically since 2000: ploughing with horses instead of a tractor, a flock of sheep for ground cover and fertilisation, preparations made from medicinal herbs and minerals, with all work carried out according to the biodynamic calendar.

Vermentino forms the backbone of the blend, together with Rossola Brandinca, Riminese, Carcaghjolu Bianco, Biancone and Paga Debiti. These varieties come from the ampelographic collection of indigenous Corsican grapes that Antoine Abbatucci saved from extinction in the 1960s. Hand-harvested into small crates, with precise selection in the cellar.

The very sunny 2017 vintage brings both freshness and power, carried by an expressive minerality that almost outshines the silky, creamy texture. Intense, lightly candied citron meets salty-stony minerality and sublime bitter notes. Taut, agile, lean, with a long, mouth-watering finish.

Homemade tagliatelle with fresh herbs, a terrine of cod, red mullet and spring vegetables in saffron jelly, or a seafood parillada with chipirones.

4000 bottles. The wine belongs to the Collection, the series named after personalities from the Abbatucci family. The estate has been Demeter-certified since 2005, and the Demeter logo appears on the label.