Gewürztraminer Clos Windsbuhl 2020

A Gewürztraminer of great vivacity: the pronounced sweetness is counterbalanced by a saline streak and fine tannin. Beguiling without ever becoming heavy, and built to last for years.

Clos Windsbuhl lies above Hunawihr at 300 to 350 metres, facing the church of Saint-Jacques le Majeur. The steep slope faces east to south but ripens late owing to its proximity to the Vosges forest. Beneath a thin topsoil lies Triassic shell limestone, rich in magnesium and calcium carbonate; the vines grow correspondingly modestly and take on the character of the bedrock.

Pure varietal Gewürztraminer from Domaine Zind-Humbrecht's monopole. Olivier Humbrecht, the first Frenchman to hold the title Master of Wine, farms the estate's 42 hectares biodynamically, with horses working the steepest vineyards. Yields run to 30 to 40 hectolitres per hectare, at least six months of lees contact lend texture, and no wine leaves the cellar before one to two years of ageing. In this site, late harvest is the key to balance. 13.0% vol.

On the nose, green figs, pink pepper and pear cream, along with apple, fresh ginger and lime zest, underpinned by a deep, saline-tinged minerality. On the palate, pronounced sweetness, a saline streak, fine tannin and an umami depth that carries the long finish.

Savoury chicory tart with grapefruit and tomato, prawns with shellfish-vanilla foam, basmati rice and lemon balm, or braised beef cheeks with dates, pomegranate and saffron rice.

Anyone opening the bottle now is best served decanting it a day ahead and pouring it not too cold into large Burgundy glasses; in a few years the wine will show even more. The Humbrecht family has been growing wine since 1620, and since 2019 Pierre Émile Humbrecht has joined as the eleventh generation.