Gewürztraminer Rangen de Thann Clos-Saint-Urbain Grand Cru 2017

An off-dry Gewürztraminer from the Grand Cru Rangen de Thann, given an unusual profile by the volcanic rock. At first a flinty reduction note reminiscent of gunpowder, which blows off quickly; behind it a stony, smoky freshness with grapefruit and apricot. Muscat and rose petal remain subtle.

The Rangen de Thann rises at a 68-degree gradient above the small town of Thann, 5.5 hectares of volcanic rock. Its greywacke comes from the dust and ash of the extinct Molkenrain volcano in the Vosges. The soil is rich in mineral elements, hence the very high dry extract and the salinity. The two small Gewürztraminer plots lie in the lower part of the Clos Saint Urbain directly above the Thur river, in the most sheltered part of the site and where the soil holds the most clay at depth.

Pure Gewürztraminer. Two cold snaps with sub-zero temperatures on 21 and 22 April, along with hail, limited the vintage; here only 19 hl/ha remained. Harvest at the Rangen ended on 26 September. The wine has 26 g/l residual sugar with 2.8 g acidity and pH 3.65, 14.0% ABV. Olivier Humbrecht farms the estate's 42 hectares biodynamically; no wine leaves the cellar before one to two years of ageing, at least six months of it on the lees.

Powerful and present, creamy to almost unctuous with citrus fruit, pale stone fruit and a hint of vanilla. Despite the restrained 2.8 grams of acidity, it comes across as bright and builds tension. This is joined by a silky tannic structure and a pronounced salinity that keeps you coming back for another sip.

Bouillabaisse with rouille, shoulder of venison with caramelised apple wedges and black walnuts, pear risotto with Époisses.

For Olivier Humbrecht, the first Frenchman to hold the Master of Wine title, 2017 ranks among the three finest vintages since the estate's founding in 1959. Horses are once again working the steepest vineyards; the Humbrecht family has been growing wine since 1620.