Gewürztraminer Rangen de Thann Clos-Saint-Urbain Grand Cru 2018

A nobly sweet Gewürztraminer whose sweetness never feels heavy. Fresh, fine aromatics and a smoky, firm minerality keep it perfectly poised. 13.5% Vol.

The Grand Cru Rangen de Thann rises above the small town of Thann and drops away at a 68-degree gradient, the steepest vineyard site in Alsace. Across 5.5 hectares of volcanic rock grow wines of striking mineral intensity. The two small Gewürztraminer vineyards lie directly above the Thur, below the Clos Saint-Urbain. The altitude and cold valley delay bud break late in winter, and flowering can be tricky. The volcanic sedimentary soils carry the variety's aromatics through to nose and palate.

Pure varietal Gewürztraminer, farmed biodynamically. Olivier Humbrecht, the first Frenchman to become a Master of Wine, converted the first five hectares in 1996; today horses once again work the steepest vineyards. Yields sit at 30 to 40 hectolitres per hectare, the wine rests on its lees for at least six months, and no bottle leaves the cellar before one to two years of ageing.

In the glass, a brilliant, radiant golden yellow. The nose brings rose, linden blossom and lily of the valley, layered over pear, quince, apricot and mango, all finely interwoven. Then the compact, smoky minerality takes hold, elegant sweetness meeting juicy fruit and spice.

With Moroccan marasin chicken with salted lemon, duck liver vadouvan jus, stuffed date, bulgur and cumin hollandaise, with saddle of venison and braised shoulder with citrus, bacon, port-wine fig, duck liver mousse and rowanberries, or for dessert: poppy seed mousse with white peach sorbet, apple and verbena.

Those who don't want to wait can decant it one to two days beforehand and serve it in large Burgundy glasses. The Humbrecht family has been growing wine since 1620.