Gewürztraminer Rangen de Thann Clos-Saint-Urbain Grand Cru 2019 1500ml Magnum

A Gewürztraminer that doesn't flaunt its aromatics but orders them: fine, agile, strikingly fresh. The 14.0% ABV on the label is barely noticeable in the glass.

With a 68-degree gradient, the Rangen de Thann is Alsace's steepest vineyard site; the Clos-Saint-Urbain covers 5.5 hectares of volcanic rock. The south-facing slopes sit at the end of a cooler valley, above 350 metres in altitude — a considerable height for Alsatian vineyards. The Thur river below the slopes moderates the climate, making Gewürztraminer cultivation near the water possible at all.

Gewürztraminer is the least-represented variety in the Clos-Saint-Urbain: 0.5 hectares, roughly 1500 bottles a year. The variety doesn't favour the cool conditions of altitude, hence its rarity in this Grand Cru. In 2019, harvesting took place considerably later than for the other Gewürztraminer, then fermented quickly and finished almost dry; the wine is declared off-dry. Olivier Humbrecht, the first Frenchman to hold the Master of Wine title, farms 42 hectares biodynamically, with yields of 30 to 40 hectolitres per hectare. No wine leaves the cellar before one to two years of ageing, at least six months of which on the lees.

Vibrant acidity and a continuous interplay, underpinned by compact, multilayered minerality. The juicy fruit, above all orange, meets a fine tannic structure; the texture stays silky and light.

Caramelised chicory with grapefruit and pine nuts from the vegetarian repertoire, beef fillet with caramelised black salsify, or to finish, pineapple tartlet with Gewürztraminer foam and basil ice cream.

The 1500 ml magnum is built for long ageing. If opening early, decant one to two days in advance and pour into large Burgundy glasses.