Kirchberg Oberrotweil Chardonnay GG 2023

A Grand Cru of sharp contour. The nose is spicy, warm and layered, the palate carried by a fine yet rich phenolic structure that coats the entire mouth immediately without ever turning bitter. The acidity still feels somewhat held back in its youth, with tension coming from texture and herbal spice.

The Kirchberg in Oberrotweil in the Kaiserstuhl faces southwest, with pale limestone soil forming its base. The vines are genetically sourced from the best sites in Burgundy and were planted in the early 1990s. The Franz Keller estate farms 35 hectares and six VDP Grosse Lagen; since 2016, Friedrich Keller has led the estate in its fourth generation, gradually converting it to organic farming with biodynamic elements.

Chardonnay, aged for twelve months in 250-litre oak barrels, with a new-wood share of 35 percent. This is followed by six months on full lees in stainless steel tank. The winery, in use since 2013 and built in terraces into the hillside, operates on the gravity-flow principle.

The nose opens with Braeburn apple and Cox Orange, candied pear and quince compote, followed by grilled corn, popcorn and a base of peach, grapefruit and unripe mango, alongside marjoram, oregano and white pepper. On the palate the fruit turns brighter: mango, apple and baked apple meet delicate turmeric notes, toasted aromas, chopped almonds and roasted hazelnuts. The finish brings back marjoram and tarragon.

12.5% ABV, dry. The texture recalls skin contact and carries a hint of pale tobacco. The estate's Schwarzer Adler restaurant has held a Michelin star continuously for over 55 years.