le Chevalier Côtes de Bourg AOC 2017

The 2017 Le Chevalier is Château Falfas's top cuvée, a dark-fruited Côtes de Bourg of striking vitality. In the glass, a dark, almost opaque cherry red; on the nose, pure and distinct blueberry, joined by blackcurrant, blackberry and black cherry, underpinned by fine oak, a touch of vanilla, some undergrowth and stone. The fruit is as dense as blueberry jam, yet the wine remains fresh and juicy.

The estate lies near Bayon in the Côtes de Bourg appellation; the property, built in 1612 in Louis XIII style, overlooks the Gironde estuary. Château Falfas comprises 20 hectares of vines on the south-facing slope and 15 hectares of woodland, which stabilise the climate and provide a refuge for beneficial insects. Half of the vineyard area sits on a terrace of clay and limestone, interspersed with flint. For Le Chevalier, the grapes come from vines up to 75 years old.

Around 70 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, complemented by about 30 percent Merlot. After hand-harvesting and a brief, cool pre-fermentation maceration, the grapes ferment with natural vineyard yeasts. Ageing takes 24 months in new and used barrels, and the wine is bottled unfiltered. 13.5% vol., dry.

Juicy and lively, with fine tannin, a cool and clear acid structure, sweet extract, and an elegant, fine-grained texture. Here one can taste the gourmandise that Cabernet Franc can offer.

With rack of lamb, beef fillet or duck breast, as well as with game dishes and a robust cheese such as Comté.

In 1988, Véronique Cochran and her husband took over the estate and converted it entirely to biodynamic farming, one of the first in the region to do so. Her father, François Bouchet, was a founding figure of biodynamics in France. A historic guide from 1827 already lists Château Falfas among the region's best crus.