Mâcon-Péronne Ars Vinea blanc AOC 2024 1500ml Magnum

A Chardonnay that favours clarity over richness: dry, lean, with a saline thread that carries it from start to finish. The signature of Domaine Thomas-Collardot still shines through, with fine grain and precise citrus fruit, without buttery toast or vanilla.

Péronne lies in the Mâconnais, the southernmost part of Burgundy, where Chardonnay feels at home on limestone soils. The wine is made right in the heart of Puligny-Montrachet, where Jacqueline Collardot and her son Matthieu run a 2.5-hectare family estate. The estate's history goes back to Jacqueline's grandfathers, Henri Chavy and Maurice Thomas; in 2010 she took back the leased vineyards, in 2015 the family bottled its first own vintage, and in 2018 Matthieu joined the business.

Pure Chardonnay. In the cellar the guiding principle is a light touch: gentle pressing, 24 hours of settling, ageing in used 228-litre barrels that have already held two to four wines, maturation on fine lees. The wine is not fined, only lightly filtered, and the Collardots largely forgo sulphur additions.

Pale straw yellow in the glass, with citrus zest, green apple and white blossom on the nose over a chalky, mineral undertone. The entry is lean, the acidity lively, the texture chalky, the finish dry and saline. 13.0% ABV.

The 1500-millilitre magnum is a rare format given an annual production of around 10,000 bottles. Craftsmanship over spectacle: a cellar that has vinified its own wine since 2015, after previously selling its grapes to négociants.