Mâcon-Péronne Ars Vinea blanc AOC 2024

A Chardonnay with a dry, saline edge: clean citrus fruit, chalky texture, fine grain. Breadth and polish aren't the aim here; buttery toast and vanilla notes are deliberately absent. A white wine for the table, not for the grand entrance.

The grapes grow in Mâcon-Péronne in southern Burgundy on limestone soils. The estate itself is based in Puligny-Montrachet: 2.5 hectares, run by Jacqueline Collardot and her son Matthieu, who joined in 2018. Until 1992, Jacqueline's father Pierre Thomas farmed the vines, after which they were leased to cousins. In 2010, Jacqueline Collardot reclaimed the vineyards, and in 2015 her first own vintage was bottled.

Pure Chardonnay. Gentle pressing, 24 hours of settling, then ten months on fine lees in used 228-litre barrels that have held two to four previous wines. No fining, only light filtration, sulphur used sparingly. 13.0% vol.

Taut and precise, with vibrant acidity, green apple, lemon zest and white blossom. The finish remains dry and saline, with chalky minerality.

Sole with lemon butter, scallops on leeks or pan-fried pikeperch. Young Comté, poultry in a light jus and roasted cauliflower with almonds also make a fitting match.

The family estate has only vinified its own wine since 2015; before that, the grapes went to négociants. The estate's annual production is around 10,000 bottles.