Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières "Au Chaniot" AOC 2023 1500ml Magnum

Precision over breadth: that's how Jacqueline Collardot and her son Matthieu work in Puligny-Montrachet, and the 2023 from Les Folatières carries this signature. Citrus fruit, white peach and a fine chalky texture define the profile, rather than buttered toast and vanilla.

The domaine farms 2.5 hectares right in the heart of Puligny-Montrachet. Les Folatières lies in the upper, slope-side part of the appellation, where the limestone bedrock comes especially close to the surface; Au Chaniot denotes the parcel from which this wine originates. The vines date back to Jacqueline's grandfathers, Henri Chavy and Maurice Thomas. Her father, Pierre Thomas, farmed them until 1992, after which they were leased out; in 2010 Jacqueline Collardot brought the vineyards back under the family's direct management.

Pure Chardonnay. The family has vinified the wine themselves since 2015, with Matthieu joining in 2018. A light touch governs the cellar: gentle pressing, 24 hours of settling, then sixteen months on fine lees in used 228-litre barrels that have already seen two to four fills. Filtration is only light, no fining is carried out, and sulphur additions are kept to a minimum.

The 14.0% ABV reflects a ripe vintage, yet the wine stays taut: vibrant acidity, a creamy texture from lees ageing, and a long, mineral, saline finish. Aromatically, citrus blossom, fresh hazelnut and a hint of brioche.

Lobster with beurre blanc, scallops with truffle, turbot roasted on the bone or poulet de Bresse à la crème. Aged Comté and Époisses also pair beautifully.

The estate's annual production is around 10,000 bottles. The 1500-millilitre magnum matures more slowly than the standard bottle, suiting a wine built to reward time in the cellar.