Meursault 1er Cru Le Poruzot-Dessus AOC 2024

A Chardonnay built on clarity and tension rather than opulence. The fruit stays cool, the oak remains in the background, minerality leads. This premier cru has plenty of power, but it comes from density rather than sheer force.

Le Poruzot-Dessus lies high on the Meursault slope, between 230 and 280 metres. The clay-rich soils of this site produce powerful, age-worthy wines, while the altitude provides freshness. Rémi Jobard farms nine hectares in Meursault; the vine rows are worked by hand, cover-cropped and unfertilised, and cordon pruning keeps yields low.

100% Chardonnay. Two large presses work with as little pressure as possible over many hours: grapes picked in the morning for at least six hours, those picked in the afternoon often overnight, for twelve hours. This produces a must free of bitterness and harsh phenolics. Ageing lasts around 15 months in 600-litre barrels from cooper Stockinger, made of French, Austrian and Slavonian oak, about a fifth of which is renewed each year, followed by a rest in tank. The wine is bottled unfiltered; stability comes from two winters of ageing.

Dense and broad-shouldered, yet held taut by cool acidity. Ripe apple and yellow citrus lead, followed by a smoky minerality. The texture is silky, the finish long and creamy. 13.0% vol., dry.

With pan-seared scallops and turbot, with Bresse chicken in morel cream sauce and with mature Comté.

The domaine has worked without chemical fertilisers and pesticides since 1994, and without herbicides since 1998. Forgoing small barriques in favour of 600-litre vessels means less wood contact per litre and slower oxygen exchange.