Meursault AOC 2024 1500ml Magnum

Chardonnay without make-up: dry, taut, with a fine grain and a saline pull. No buttery toast, no clouds of vanilla, but lemon zest, white blossom and a chalky texture that gives the wine its tension. 12.5% vol. keeps it lean and agile.

Meursault in Burgundy, bottled by a domaine with 2.5 hectares right in the heart of Puligny-Montrachet. The vines trace back to Jacqueline Collardot's grandfathers, Henri Chavy and Maurice Thomas. Her father Pierre Thomas farmed them until 1992, after which they were leased to cousins. In 2010 Jacqueline Collardot took the vineyards back, trained at the CFPPA in Beaune, and bottled her first own vintage in 2015; before that, the grapes went to négociants. Her son Matthieu joined in 2018.

Chardonnay, gently pressed, 24 hours of settling, aged in used 228-litre pièces that have already held two to four wines. As a village wine, it matures for sixteen months on fine lees. It is not fined, only lightly filtered, and largely without added sulphur.

The pull is dry and saline, the acidity vibrant, the fruit precisely outlined. Nothing pushes to the fore; the finish lingers long and chalky. Transparency over opulence, precision over breadth: a wine that enlivens the table rather than dominating it.

The domaine's annual production stands at around 10,000 bottles, self-vinified only since 2015. The 1500 ml magnum format is a rarity here, turning the bottle into a centrepiece for the long table.