Monthelie 1er Cru Sur la Velle AOC 2023

The Monthelie 1er Cru Sur la Velle AOC 2023 is a dry Chardonnay from a Premier Cru vineyard above Volnay, farmed biodynamically and bottled unfiltered. Pale straw yellow with green reflections. The nose moves between delicate blossoms, clear citrus fruit and yellow fruit, underpinned by the mineral impression of wet chalk. A ripe style, kept in fine balance by its polish.

Sur la Velle is located in Monthélie above Volnay, on limestone and clay soils facing southeast. The domaine is based in Meursault and has worked without chemical fertilizers and pesticides since 1994, and without herbicides since 1998. The vine rows are worked by hand and cover-cropped, while cordon pruning keeps yields low.

Chardonnay, selective hand harvest, followed by a slow pressing at the lowest possible pressure: the cellar houses two correspondingly large presses that process the grapes over six to twelve hours. Fermentation begins spontaneously with indigenous yeasts. The wine matures for around twelve months in large Stockinger casks and used pièces, a maximum of 20 % of them new, followed by around six months in stainless steel tank.

Fine and polished in structure, yet of ripe generosity in its overall makeup. Juicy, with yellow-fruited extract, the vertical acidity lends pace. Aromatically dense, with good tension and a long, fruity-saline finish. 13.5 % vol.

Grilled turbot or sea bass with beurre blanc, lobster bisque, veal sweetbreads, Poulet de Bresse à la crème, risotto with white truffle, and aged Comté.

Rémi Jobard ages his white wines in 600-litre casks from the Austrian cooper Stockinger rather than in small barriques; only about a fifth of the casks are renewed each year. The wine gains its stability through two winters of ageing rather than through filtration. Plan on large glasses.