Nana 2023

An Albariño with two faces. The nose is rich and deep: vanilla slice, apricot cream cake and tarte Tatin, candied quince and caramelised pear, underscored by vineyard peach, mirabelle plum, mango and a hint of passion fruit. Set against this are cold smoke, fine salt and a slaty undertone. The palate pulls back this opulence to become lean, cool and precise.

The grapes grow in the Val do Salnés, the heartland of Rías Baixas. Granite soils with sandy-clay layers form the base, and the vines mostly face west toward the Atlantic. The classic pergola training protects the grapes from intense sun and keeps the canopy airy in this rain-rich region.

Albariño from the bodega's oldest vines, some up to 60 years old. Hand-harvested, sorted on the selection table, fully destemmed, then cold-macerated; only the first pressing goes into the Nana. Fermentation happens spontaneously in 228- and 500-litre French oak barrels, where the wine spends a full year on the lees, which are regularly stirred.

The entry brings nashi pear, yellow pear and green apple, cool and lively. The acidity is compact and taut, giving the wine its straight line. With time in the glass it builds depth, with creaminess and softness from the oak joining in without ever feeling lavish. The texture stays stony, saline and vibrant, carried by a maritime note. The finish is bright and delicate, with a green, saline minerality.

Robustiano and Baldomero Fariña run Attis in the third generation, their cellar dug into the granite rock, with winemaker Jean-François Hébrard at their side. The Nana shows an Albariño that goes well beyond fresh vibrancy.