Neustadter Vogelsang Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2021

A cool, purist Riesling that shows its power through tension rather than fullness. On the nose, jasmine tea, lime and lemon flash up, alongside garden herbs, blond tobacco, green apple, an iodine note and a touch of smoke. The effect is clear, almost crystalline.

The Vogelsang lies above Neustadt an der Weinstrasse, at altitudes of up to 260 metres, with slopes facing south of up to 50%. The soil consists of shell limestone, formed more than 200 million years ago. Once well known, the site had fallen into obscurity; in 2017, after years under the most conventional management, the vineyard came to the Christmann family through a land swap, and they converted it to biodynamics immediately. For several years the wine was bottled as a VDP.Ortswein under the name Neustadt V.

Riesling, harvested at just 40 hl/ha so the grapes reach their full flavour potential. The juice spent a few hours on the skins, fermented spontaneously at a fairly warm temperature and matured in a large 1200-litre oval cask. 12.5% ABV, dry.

Taut and sinewy, almost austere. The drive comes from a gripping, powerful yet crystalline acidity, joined by a light, shaping extract, electrifying minerality and great length. Cool, firm and wild in its aromatics of stone, tobacco and herbs. Open it now and you see its potential; wait, and you get more.

Risotto with smoked eel, dill and green apple, meagre with leche de tigre, pak choi and mango or vegetarian dim sum.

The first Grosses Gewächs from the Vogelsang, one of the VDP.GROSSE LAGEN of the A. Christmann estate. The estate has farmed biodynamically since 2003, certified respekt-BIODYN and EU organic.