Riesling 2018-20 190 N.N. [Nakt]

A Riesling from the Nakt series: no added sulphur, fermented on the skins, unfiltered. On the nose it is intense and expressive, almost shimmering. A pronounced yeast aroma sits alongside vineyard peach, elderflower, elderwood and hibiscus, while freshness comes from citrus, citrus zest and ginger, backed by malty notes, rooibos tea and light, refined tobacco.

The monopole site Wachenheimer Odinstal lies 350 metres above the Rhine valley, in a hollow surrounded by ten hectares of mixed forest, with no winegrowing neighbours nearby. Across five hectares, four types of rock sit side by side: basalt, shell limestone, keuper and yellow variegated sandstone. Here the grapes ripen 20 days later than in the valley below. This wine grows in a terraced vineyard full of diversity, worked entirely by hand, without tractors.

Pure Riesling, hand-harvested, three vintages fermented together on the skins and bottled unfiltered. Estate manager Andreas Schumann follows a principle of non-intervention in the cellar: spontaneous fermentation without temperature control, extended lees ageing, minimal use of sulphur. The Nakt series takes this further, forgoing sulphur entirely.

Cloudy apricot in the glass, with the finest mousseux. A gentle sparkle on the tongue, underpinned by a carpet of yeast and pale fruit. Plenty of freshness, plenty of grip, plenty of depth, all at 12.0% vol.

A food companion for tomato consommé with basil dumplings, orecchiette with pears, rocket and almonds or cheese-and-ham crostini with wild herb salad.

Three vintages in one bottle, skin fermentation, no filtration, no added sulphur. The VDP estate has been Demeter-certified since 2013 and operates as a closed organism under biodynamic principles; five suckler cows graze among the vines, and the label carries the Demeter logo.