Particules Crayeuses L19 Extra Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs

The Particules Crayeuses L20 is Waris-Larmandier's flagship blanc de blancs, an Extra Brut made from pure grand cru chardonnay, marked by its chalk. The nose is bright and precise: lemon zest, ripe yellow and green citrus fruits, a touch of white stone fruit, plus garden herbs, fine biscuit, lemon cream and a hint of almond cream. The autolysis stays discreet, supporting the freshness rather than masking it.

The grapes come from vines at least 40 years old in the grand cru villages of Chouilly, Cramant, Avize, Oger and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. Marie-Hélène Waris founded the house in 1989 with her husband Vincent in Avize; today their three children run the estate. Jean-Philippe has overseen the vinification since 2009, converted all nine hectares in 2011, and achieved Demeter certification in 2020.

Pure chardonnay, hand-harvested and pressed in a traditional 4,000 kg Coquard press; only the cuvée, meaning the juice from the first pressing, was used. Spontaneous fermentation and ageing partly in stainless steel, partly in 600-litre Burgundian demi-muids. The base wines matured for six to 18 months, after which the bottles rested 24 to 36 months sur lattes. The cuvée blends two vintages with 30% solera, the origins of which date back to 2013; the dosage is 2 g/l.

Juicy and silky on entry, with fine creaminess. The chalky minerality lends tension and structure, piquant citrus notes, subtle spice and fine grip create energy. The gentle bead carries the wine into a long, saline finish.

The wine is bottled at 4.5 bar instead of the usual 6 bar. This makes the bead finer and the champagne immediately approachable. Inès designs the house's floral labels, with each cuvée featuring a different flower.