Pinot Gris Heimbourg 2020

The Pinot Gris Heimbourg 2020 from Domaine Zind-Humbrecht is a dry Alsatian white wine from a cool, steep vineyard near Turckheim, drawing its tension from acidity and spice rather than fruit richness. Brilliant golden yellow in the glass. The nose initially moves away from fruit towards green tea, undergrowth and herbal infusion; with air, lime, green apple and grapefruit emerge, underpinned by a compact minerality.

The Heimbourg vineyard sits on a hill detached from the Vosges, east of the Grand Cru Brand in Turckheim. After the Second World War, this 7-hectare vineyard was largely abandoned, as its slopes, in places exceeding 50% gradient, were barely workable. The soils are shallow, the Oligocene bedrock breaks the surface, and the plough hits blocks of calcareous sandstone conglomerate. The southwest to west exposure exposes the grapes to cooler north winds: not a sun-drenched vineyard, but one with expressive aromatics and pronounced acidity. Léonard Humbrecht acquired the first plots in 1978; today the estate farms 4 hectares here.

Pinot Gris, farmed biodynamically under Olivier Humbrecht, the first Frenchman to become a Master of Wine. Yields are 30 to 40 hectolitres per hectare, at least six months of lees contact provide texture, and no wine leaves the cellar before one to two years of ageing. 13.0% vol., dry.

Salty and sweet on the first impression, then the invigorating acidity blends with juicy apple fruit. A malty note and a fine tannic structure provide backbone and stimulate the appetite. Very good ageing potential.

A wine for spice and fruit on the plate: pike-perch pan-fried skin-side down with sauerkraut and chestnuts, blood sausage with apple on mashed potatoes or potato and butternut squash salad with apple, walnuts and mushrooms.

Anyone opening this vintage now should decant it at least a day in advance and pour it not too cold, from large Burgundy glasses. Horses are once again at work on the estate's steep slopes.