Pinot Gris Roche Volcanique 2022

A dry Pinot Gris that pairs power with freshness. Multi-layered on the nose, taut on the palate, with a bitter edge that whets the appetite.

The vines grow on the Rangen near Thann, whose dark volcanic sediment soils decompose to release clays and minerals that have penetrated deep into the greywacke bedrock. The slope drops at a 68-degree gradient. The Domaine planted its first Pinot Gris vines here in 1963; after acquiring the Clos Saint Urbain in 1977, further plantings followed between 1978 and 1999.

Single-varietal Pinot Gris, dry, 13.0 % ABV. In 2022 yields were high, more markedly so in the younger vines than the old ones; this difference is what led to the two wines being kept separate. Here, "young" means an average age of 39 years. In the Domaine's cellar, the wines rest on the lees for at least six months and age for one to two years before leaving the estate.

On the nose, juicy apple, orange flesh, apricot, elderflower, rose and fresh ginger, along with a delicate smoky note and the cool freshness of grapefruit zest; with exposure to air, anise and cardamom emerge. A juicy opening, then an acidity that tingles the palate, fine bitter accents and a long finish.

Quiche with green asparagus, prawns with cardamom lentils and spinach, or lamb tajine with carrots, preserved lemon and garlic.

Olivier Humbrecht, the first Frenchman to hold the title of Master of Wine, farms 42 hectares biodynamically; in 1996 he converted the first five hectares, and horses once again work the steepest sites. Decant the wine and serve it not too cold in a larger glass.